A little random tour of Empordà: mountains, medieval villages and an onion cake

Blogging about such a beautiful region as Empordà is very easy. One day the blogger can visit any of its charming Mediterranean villages, like Tamariu, drink a coffee, take some photos by the beach, and the post-of-the-day is almost finished. The blog’s author (that’s me) only has to add his nonsensical musings.

Any other day, if the blog’s author deems appropriate to change the blog’s mood, he drives his car for a while through the deep countryside, from the Empordà’s coast (called “Costa Brava”) to the interior, hopping from village to village, camera in hand. If he is hungry, he has lunch at any restaurant serving local food, takes some pics, and the post-of-the-day is almost finished. The blog’s author (that’s me) only has to add his nonsensical musings.

Today we are following the latter plan. Come with me.


The impressive Pyrenees Mountains are the perennial background setting of any excursion through Empordà (pic above). They mark the border between Spain and France.

Medieval architecture prevails in all these little villages, like Vulpellac:

Medieval Ampurdán

Vulpellac 2

Canapost has a very interesting church: Sant Esteve. Its primitive structure is Pre-Romanesque (9th century). The church was enlarged and completed in the Romanesque period (12th century). In plain words, it is an old little church:

Sant Esteve de Canapost

Sant Esteve de Canapost

These are the remains of the Benedictine monastery of Sant Miquel de Cruïlles (11th century), in the mini-village of Cruïlles:

Medieval church

That village on top of a hill is Pals:


Beware of the castle. It is full of phantoms (Torroella del Montgrí Castle, 14th century):

Castillo Torroella

Sant Mori is another old village. It has a Gothic palace (15th century):

Gothic Palace

The medieval feeling is so strong in Sant Mori, that some times your brain can lie to itself, but you know at heart that you are not in the Dark Ages; you are living in the 21st century … hence modern locals don’t move around in horses … Do they?

Medieval horse

There is a clock on that tower … and an ultra-light airplane is crossing the Sant Mori’s sky … No doubt; these are not the Middle Ages:

Sant Mori church

Gothic Palace of Sant Mori

Sant Mori is located very close to a river called “Fluviá”. If we follow this river downstream, towards the sea, soon we arrive to another medieval village: Sant Miquel de Fluviá.

Sant Miquel de Fluviá has a quite impressive Romanesque church. It is fortified. Originally it was part of a Benedictine monastery (only the church has survived), dependent of another monastery located in France, named Saint Michel de Cuxa. Sant Miquel (this one) was built at the turn of the 11th century:

Sant Miquel de Fluivá Church

Medieval village

St Michael church

The medieval feeling is strong in Sant Miquel de Fluviá too, but don’t let your brain lie itself … Modern locals don’t move around in horses in this village … Do they?

Horse in Sant Miquel de Fluvia

Not far away from Sant Miquel de Fluviá is the charming Sant Tomàs de Fluviá (11th-12th centuries; great medieval frescoes decorate this church’s interiors):

Sant Tomas de Fluvia

Not far away from Sant Miquel de Fluviá and from Sant Tomàs de Fluviá is …

Torroella de Fluviá

Torroella de Fluviá. In this village you can find one more Romanesque church, called Sant Cebrià (12th century):

Romanesque church

The original Romanesque door is closed … It’s lunch time …

Romanesque door

The Empordanese countryside makes me very hungry.

Emporda valley

This land produces outstanding food. I feel like eating onion cake … Let’s follow the Fluviá river upstream, towards the neighboring “comarca” (region) named Pla de l’Estany. We are going to Orfes village, where there is a restaurant named “La Barretina” which servers traditional Catalan food …

La Barretina Orfes

La Barretina Orfes 2

This is my first course (onion cake, pic below), and the end of this post. Yum!

Onion cake La Barretina

Related articles:

Little gems from the Middle Ages

Romanesque churches in the Pyrenees


About Covetotop

A Mediterranean blogger
This entry was posted in Art, Towns & Villages and tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , . Bookmark the permalink.

15 Responses to A little random tour of Empordà: mountains, medieval villages and an onion cake

  1. As always, a delightful ramble through most charming villages…and the onion dish makes me hungry!

  2. Sarah says:

    Mmm! I think I need to make some onion cake!

  3. a ferreira says:

    Wonderful, the several round shapes caught my eye, they’re unusual (I think…)!
    Lovely villages, splendid Sant Cebrià’s door, nice horses (but you’ve missed the phantoms…)! 😉

  4. Wow, this really makes me want to explore more of the interior of Catalunya! Lovely post, as always. 🙂

  5. Linda Duffin says:

    Hi Covetotop, can you tell me what that dish is called in Catalan please? It looks delicious but it’s not one I’m familiar with (and I think I’ve eaten almost as much Catalan food as you have!).


  6. Oh, wow. And this is certainly one of the best times of the year to visit. Absolutely charming.

  7. My goodness, that all looks lovely. Can’t wait to get back to Catalunya some day, I used to live in Barcelona many, many years ago, and it was one of the best, if not the very best, time in my whole life. I remember going out to places like Cadaques, Girona, and so on, and – although I usually worked in the city (in Barcelona, right in the old centre) – i did work down the coast in Sitges for one summer, and in an old masia, (macia/masia?) with a summer camp school, near Vic, for another summer. It was all wonderful, you know i missed it so much after i left that i haven’t been back since, because I was (am) sure it would make me sad ! Must rectify that some day soon. Although I am still worried it will make me sad! Anyway, lovely post as always. Respects – Arran.

    • Covetotop says:

      Thank you very much for your nice comment, Arran. The rectification you mention can only lead you to happiness, not to sadness … I hope you’ll decide to visit this beautiful territory again. (Btw, it is “masia”) 🙂

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