Blogging about such a beautiful region as Empordà is very easy. One day the blogger can visit any of its charming Mediterranean villages, like Tamariu, drink a coffee, take some photos by the beach, and the post-of-the-day is almost finished. The blog’s author (that’s me) only has to add his nonsensical musings.
Any other day, if the blog’s author deems appropriate to change the blog’s mood, he drives his car for a while through the deep countryside, from the Empordà’s coast (called “Costa Brava”) to the interior, hopping from village to village, camera in hand. If he is hungry, he has lunch at any restaurant serving local food, takes some pics, and the post-of-the-day is almost finished. The blog’s author (that’s me) only has to add his nonsensical musings.
Today we are following the latter plan. Come with me.
The impressive Pyrenees Mountains are the perennial background setting of any excursion through Empordà (pic above). They mark the border between Spain and France.
Medieval architecture prevails in all these little villages, like Vulpellac:
Canapost has a very interesting church: Sant Esteve. Its primitive structure is Pre-Romanesque (9th century). The church was enlarged and completed in the Romanesque period (12th century). In plain words, it is an old little church:
These are the remains of the Benedictine monastery of Sant Miquel de Cruïlles (11th century), in the mini-village of Cruïlles:
That village on top of a hill is Pals:
Beware of the castle. It is full of phantoms (Torroella del Montgrí Castle, 14th century):
Sant Mori is another old village. It has a Gothic palace (15th century):
The medieval feeling is so strong in Sant Mori, that some times your brain can lie to itself, but you know at heart that you are not in the Dark Ages; you are living in the 21st century … hence modern locals don’t move around in horses … Do they?
There is a clock on that tower … and an ultra-light airplane is crossing the Sant Mori’s sky … No doubt; these are not the Middle Ages:
Sant Mori is located very close to a river called “Fluviá”. If we follow this river downstream, towards the sea, soon we arrive to another medieval village: Sant Miquel de Fluviá.
Sant Miquel de Fluviá has a quite impressive Romanesque church. It is fortified. Originally it was part of a Benedictine monastery (only the church has survived), dependent of another monastery located in France, named Saint Michel de Cuxa. Sant Miquel (this one) was built at the turn of the 11th century:
The medieval feeling is strong in Sant Miquel de Fluviá too, but don’t let your brain lie itself … Modern locals don’t move around in horses in this village … Do they?
Not far away from Sant Miquel de Fluviá is the charming Sant Tomàs de Fluviá (11th-12th centuries; great medieval frescoes decorate this church’s interiors):
Not far away from Sant Miquel de Fluviá and from Sant Tomàs de Fluviá is …
… Torroella de Fluviá. In this village you can find one more Romanesque church, called Sant Cebrià (12th century):
The original Romanesque door is closed … It’s lunch time …
The Empordanese countryside makes me very hungry.
This land produces outstanding food. I feel like eating onion cake … Let’s follow the Fluviá river upstream, towards the neighboring “comarca” (region) named Pla de l’Estany. We are going to Orfes village, where there is a restaurant named “La Barretina” which servers traditional Catalan food …
This is my first course (onion cake, pic below), and the end of this post. Yum!