Aigua Xellida and the handsome fisherman

Aigua Xellida, also spelled Aigua Xelida, is a very little cove located not far away from the village of Tamariu (Costa Brava, Baix Empordà, province of Girona, Catalonia, Spain, Europe, planet Earth)

“Hermós” was the Catalan nickname of a very wise and very ugly fisherman who lived alone and happy in this secluded cove a long time ago. The word “Hermós” can be translated into English as “Handsome”.

Hermós had a good friend: Josep Pla.

Josep Pla was a writer … an outstanding writer.

This is the Aigua Xellida cove:

Mediterranean cove

These are some words written by Josep Pla about Aigua Xellida and his friend “Hermós”, as they appear in his short story “Un viatge frustrat” (“A frustrated journey”):

“I used to go as a pilgrim to Aigua Xellida.

It was not easy to get there. The paths had grown over and despite being a mere half hour’s walk from Tamariu, access was difficult. But it was worth making a bit of an effort. The small cove was of a pale carmine hue touched by the shadow of the pine branches. Hermós lived there, with a small boat and a few fishing lines. The solitude was total.

Thinking back over my meetings with this man, I have reached the conclusion that the core of his personality was, despite his illiteracy, the solid culture that he possessed. His real name was Sebastià Puig and he descended from one of the oldest families of Palagrugell: Can Cuca de Vilaseca. Physically, he seemed an anthropopithecus …”

Boat Aigua Xellida

Josep Pla also wrote about his good friend Hermós and the Aigua Xellida cove in the most beautiful, funny, authentic and entertaining touristic guide I have ever read: The Costa Brava Guide (Pic below: three guides by Mr. Pla, vol 30 of the complete edition of Josep Pla’s works) …

Pla Guía de la Costa Brava

Today Aigua Xellida is not a secluded cove. The old and difficult path that Josep Pla transited so many times to visit his friend Hermós has been transformed into a paved little road.

And there are a few houses around.

Hermós abandoned that cove and this world many years ago.

Josep Pla died on April 23, 1981.

The other day I wandered through Aigua Xellida and its immediate surroundings in the utmost solitude, with my camera in hand. I just wanted to share with my little bunch of loyal readers a few pics of this tiny and beautiful corner of the Mediterranean Sea.

The sun was shining high on the horizon. A weak and mild “Garbí” wind -SW- was blowing, bringing to me pine and rosemary scents.

Sat on a rock, overwhelmed by the contemplation of the immense sea, breathing that purest air, I heard something coming from the apparently lonely Aigua Xellida beach …

It was the sound of two male voices speaking in the old Catalan language … and laughter … mixed with the whispery Garbí wind … From the distance, I could barely understand what those two men were talking about … Something about dozens of grilled sardines, a sailing boat, the wind, the sun, a journey, Heaven …

Here below you can see the pics I took that wonderful day:

Aigua Xellida Costa Brava

Aigua Xelida

Mediterranean Sea Aigua Xellida

Surroundings of Aigua Xellida

Aigua Xellida 1

Aigua Xellida 2

Aigua Xellida 3

Aigua Xellida 4

Aigua Xellida 5

Aigua Xellida 6

Aigua Xellida 7

Josep Pla i Hermós



About Covetotop

A Mediterranean blogger
This entry was posted in Beaches and tagged , , , , , , , , , , . Bookmark the permalink.

12 Responses to Aigua Xellida and the handsome fisherman

  1. oliviaobryon says:

    I think every writer should have a cove like that! I enjoyed your description of sitting and hearing those voices. Great post.

  2. And no swim? The water must really be as icy as the name suggests… Great post – wonderful little corner of the universe.

  3. I saw many little stone buildings right on the water, like in one of your pictures above, driving between Port Lecuate and Portbeau. Son casitas o algo para botes? Si es una casa, que delicia vivir allá!

  4. Trish says:

    There are some coves like these near the region I’m currently in. Your photos are much prettier than mine – I’ve tried to capture the green of the water but my camera isn’t adequate. I like this post.

    • Covetotop says:

      Thank you Trish. In my opinion, the secret is neither on the camera, nor on the photographer: the Costa Brava is simply very photogenic! 🙂

  5. Pingback: 70: From Printed Patterns to Handmade Books, diversifying. | Almofate's Likes

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